Pinot Noir is the only red grape allowed in appellation controlled Alsace wine. It most often yields pale reds, commonly crafted specifically as rosé. In Alsace, the Pinot Noir skin is even thinner skin than it normally is, which reduces the amount of pigment available to the resulting wine. Site selection is crucial to Pinot Noir already, but Alsace offers it precious few places to thrive. When it is grown in the proper locations, though, it can be as serious and moody as any red Burgundy.

Gauged against the value of non-Grand Cru Riesling, for example, Alsatian Pinot Noir represents a dreadful buy. It is almost always priced at the same tier as a well-made Grand Cru Riesling, but this is immaterial when it is a concentrated, expansive, and serious wine. One can generally tell if it aspires to greatness merely by the color, but it's generally best to ask the wine merchant, who has, one hopes, actually tried it.

The best Pinot Noirs from Alsace often come from Grand Cru vineyards, despite the fact that this makes no economic sense (because Pinot Noir is not entitled to Grand Cru status in Alsace, and therefore cannot command a higher price). The Grands Crus of Brand and Hengst are particularly well-known for their Pinot Noir.

Sources for Good Alsace Pinot Noir
Estates that craft well-made Pinot Noir include: Barmès-Buecher makes serious, overachieving Pinot Noir; Some occasional attempts by Albert Boxler have been wonderful, if not high-minded; I've had three vintages from CV Cléebourg, two of which were wonderful and obscenely underpriced; Wolfberger--not generally one of my favorite estates--makes a very consistent Pinot Noir that is full of character and an excellent value. I have had one from Zind-Humbrecht, and it was also an overachiever, but priced like it as well.

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