Sunday, May 20, 2012

Other Wines from Alsace

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Posted by Burke Morton On August - 29 - 2009

Frederic Mallo CremantCrémant d'Alsace
Crémant d'Alsace is Alsace's answer to Champagne. It is sparkling wine made in the method of Champagne, usually of Pinot Blanc with some Pinot Gris added in for definition. It is usually an incredible value, rarely topping $20, and always a first-class wine to serve at any festive occasion where finances are tight, or for many different foods: Alsace wines are incredibly food friendly, and Crémant d'Alsace is no exception.

And Now for the Really Obscure...
There are other styles of wine in Alsace, from Vin de Paille and Vin de Glace, which don't officially exist, to some AOC Village wines that are worth knowing about. The first is Klevener de Heiligenstein, made from the Traminer Grape, which is, according to some, the same as the Savignin Blanc grape that is widely grown in the Jura. The Klevener de Heiligenstein has so little in common with Savignin that many have balked at this, and after some analysis, it would appear that it is actually Savignin Rosé, a mutation of Savignin Blanc. A good Klevener de Heiligenstein resembles a rather demure version of Gewurztraminer.

Rouge de St. HippolyteThe other AOC Village wines are made of Pinot Noir under labels like Rouge d'Ottrott, Rouge de Rodern, Rouge de St.-Hippolyte, Rosé de Marlenheim, and Rosé de Turckheim. The rosés generally offer a tasty rosé experience. The reds are rather insignificant, though I have had a Rouge de St.-Hippolyte that was a fine welterweight red. That it was from the excruciatingly hot 2003 vintage may have contributed to its richer texture and juiciness, but the man pouring it for me told me that Rouge de St.-Hippolyte is always better than the others. I wonder what someone from Ottrott or Rodern would say?

Vins de Pays in Alsace and the Vins de Table
There are two départements for Vin de Pays in Alsace--Vin de Pays du Bas-Rhin and Vin de Pays du Haut-Rhin. The same varieties allowed for AOC Alsace are permitted in the Vins de Pays. Those who are just outside the bounds of AOC Alsace make Vins de Pays. The wines have to be submitted for approval, but there is not much wine released every year under either of the Vins de Pays, in part because not many growers want to work outside of the AOC for the rather humbly perceived Vins de Pays.

Vins de Table are wines made from varieties not allowed in AOC Alsace or Vins de Pays. Chardonnay is represented in limited quantities in Alsace, but is not permitted for AOC wine, so it turns any AOC variety into a Vin de Table when it is in a blend. Vins de Table are non-vintage wines, whether the fruit is from a single vintage or not. Zind-Humbrecht makes a fine Vin de Table called "Zind" that is a blend of Chardonnay and other more typical Alsatian varieties.

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