Nine Varieties--Each Bearing Its Own Name, Grand Cru...or Not
There are eight varietal denominations permitted under AOC Alsace: Chasselas, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot, Tokay-Pinot Gris (now officially just Pinot Gris), Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Sylvaner. Auxerrois has functioned as a phantom variety under the broad shouldered "Pinot" label, and has in the past been called 'Pinot Auxerrois' to ensure its use. Auxerrois yields such unique wine that it deserves the credit, and though it is not officially sanctioned under the law, more estates market Auxerrois eponymously each year. [There is a tenth variety that parades under the moniker of Klevener de Heiligenstein. This is actually an AOC Village wine made from the Traminer grape, and only permitted within the confines of the commune of Heiligenstein.]

With this range of wines permitted, all Alsatian producers sell a lineup of most of these wines. Most of these estates make at least a second tier: cuvées that they determine to be superior to a 'generic' varietal labeling, designated as a Reserve of some sort. After 1975, the Grands Crus further cluttered the stable of wines that estates offer, granting those lucky enough to hold some Grand Cru land another stratum of wine excellence to purvey. Alsace does not have a 'Premier Cru' tier like that of Burgundy, so the single-vineyard designation has become an important tool that estates can use to signify higher quality between Grand Cru and Réserve Personnelle.

I do not believe that a wine should be "pigeon-holed" in a way that makes any variance seem out of normal character. However, I do feel that there is a baseline sense of expression that a grape may have from a given macro-terroir (Yes, I know, that oxymoronic term alone flies in the face of the notion of terroir, but I'm using it in its secondary definition.) The basic character of each of the AOC Alsace grapes are as follows:

• Auxerrois--when yields are kept under control, a honeyed, spicy, buttered quality that is richer and more well-delineated than Pinot Blanc.
• Chasselas--Singing with freshness, it can be reminiscent of inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc, and a delight to drink; most is blended into Edelzwicker.
• Gewurztraminer--voluptuous and intensely aromatic, and odds are 50-50 that it will contain residual sugar; becomes more warming and gingerbread-like with maturity.
• Muscat--Intensely aromatic, bone-dry wine with fresh orange blossom scents when young; acquires a caraway tone when 10+ years old.
• Pinot d'Alsace--which is usually a blend (which can include the three Pinots and Auxerrois) that is too often underrated; succulent wine with a pie spice notion is common.
• Pinot Blanc--aroma is diaphanous, but flavors are commonly of rich and velvety yellow fruits.
• Pinot Gris--Has a more majestic quality than Auxerrois, but a some common flavors which are recast by this variety's higher acidity with a peach or apple essence.
• Pinot Noir--Made more seriously than in the past, but is often a lightweight, light-colored wine; when it is a deep red, it can still maintain a white wine freshness.
• Riesling--Generally bone dry, the best wines need a few years to ameliorate the intense lime-flavored acids, opening into a radiant, elegant, wine muscular enough to serve with beef.
• Sylvaner--in Alsace this variety is plump with a lemongrass and lentil quality.

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