Sunday, May 20, 2012

Florimont

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Posted by Burke Morton On November - 10 - 2009

FlorimontThis 15ha Grand Cru is a fairly steep, isolated hill of limestone that can give one the impression of walking a vineyard in Provence, not Alsace. This is because Florimont is one of two Crus in Alsace (the other being Zinnkoepflé) that captures the kind of robust warmth needed to support Mediterranean flora, hence the name 'Florimont'--hill of flowers.

A (Relatively) New Grand Cru
Attached to the village of Ingersheim, Florimont was delimited as a Grand Cru in 1988, along with Bruderthal, as the last Grands Crus until Kaefferkopf was elevated in 2006. Florimont is still unknown internationally, despite being a distinguished source of wines for those who know about it. This is in part because of the fairly recent Grand Cru recognition, but also because there are only a few producers who make wines from the Cru, therefore, market representation (even locally) of Florimont is not good. The wines, as should be the case for any Grand Cru (though it is not always the true: how--HOW?--can the Grand Cru Schlossberg be ENTIRELY of such high quality when it covers almost 198 acres?), radiate the sort of power and mystery that only a first rate vineyard can provide.

Grape Varieties in Use in Florimont
Gewürztraminer is considered the prime variety for the vineyard, and so is the most planted variety. I have also had Riesling (extraordinary and singular) and Pinot Gris (excellent quality) from this vineyard; I understand Muscat is planted, but I have not had one.

Florimont's Best Growers
If Bruno Sorg were better known, as he deserves to be, wine lovers would flock to wines from this vineyard. Sorg is one of the great growers of the region, and from Florimont he makes fantastic Gewürztraminer and Riesling. This Riesling merits particular plaudits for combining all the majesty one should expect from a Grand Cru with a rather naughty sensuousness: it is so ripe it seems to burst on the tongue, and true to Grand Cru form, its qualitative consistency from year to year is steady. The other wine from this vineyard that comes to mind right now is the Gewürztraminer from the local cooperative of Ingersheim which usually bears a bacon-fatty, tropical fruit-tone.

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