I went to Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim last month and met with cellar master Olaf Richter, as Olivier Humbrecht was out of town. Olaf is an affable, ingratiating man who has worked a circuitous path outside of the wine world en route from the Pfalz (across the Rhine) to this extraordinary domaine, where he has soaked in more than just wine. We talked at length about many things, wine and beyond, and--as you might expect--we tasted through many, many wines (I'll publish my complete tasting notes soon).

An Astounding Beginning
We tasted through more than twenty of the estate's 2007s, and it would be difficult--because of such uniformly high quality--to single out one wine, except for the one that would stand out because it doesn't belong: a Chardonnay. The Chardonnay is from the Clos Windsbuhl, a vineyard famous for Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer. And here they've made this extraordinary Chardonnay, so perhaps Chard should be added to the list of permissible grape varieties?!?! Since it is not on that list, it is relegated to Vin de Table status, and the vintage date may not be printed on the label. This is ludicrous, as such a seriously made wine has no business not being recognized as such, which Vin de Table isn't. M. Humbrecht made this wine from strictly controlled yields from vines in a vineyard cherished for the quality of regionally permitted varieties, and it spent some time in two- to three-year-old barrels obtained from a grower in Burgundy. In context, it hardly seems like Alsace wine when you taste it, but it is not like any Chardonnay I've ever had, either. It is a fascinating wine, combining elements of juniper, mint, and ginger into a serious, incredibly expressive wine that is unmistakably Chardonnay. This wine was but a harbinger of the things to come.

Looking for the Mystery
The wines that I found most stimulating were those that seemed to be hiding their hand. There were five (of eight) Rieslings that conjured this feeling in me, Clos Häuserer, Heimbourg, Clos Windsbuhl, Rangen-Clos St.-Urbain, and Brand Vieilles Vignes; two Pinots Gris, Clos Windsbuhl and Rangen-Clos St.-Urbain; two Gewurztraminers, also from Clos Windsbuhl and Rangen-Clos St.-Urbain. The sense of mystery in these wines was mentally and emotionally energizing and unsettling. They seemed to express qualities reminiscent of a scratch lottery ticket...with each passing year, more of the layer obscuring the prize is scraped away. At the same time, all the elements were there, you can taste them, draped like many curtains over the final goal. When they align to express their true nature, each in its own way, what a reward there will be!

A Few Bargains
The 2007 Pinot Gris Calcaire is a standout for value--it is "declassified" Pinot Gris from young vines in Clos Windsbuhl and Heimbourg. It would be incredibly useful at the table, as would both the Riesling Turckheim and the Riesling Herrenweg. The Gewurztraminer from Gueberschwihr, from vines adjacent to the Goldert Grand Cru, is a also a great value.

The Nectar of the Gods
There has been a trend in Alsace towards cultivating specific vineyards or plots only for the production of late harvest wines. Domaine Weinbach uses Gewurztraminer from the Grand Cru Mambourg in this manner, and Bruno Sorg uses its Gewurztraminer from the Grand Cru Florimont this way as well. Zind-Humbrecht cultivates Pinot Gris in the Clos Jebsal for this purpose alone, and this is one of the vineyards about which I was most curious. It is within sight of the winery, planted entirely with Pinot Gris, lies just below the Heimbourg vineyard, and is adjacent to the Grand Cru Brand.

The wines from this vineyard were radiant, golden expressions of sun, rain, and honey. The 2007 Sélection de Grains Nobles is an extraordinary, moving wine, with its sweetness taking a back seat to the rich panoply of flavors that cross your tongue (but don't think it is low on sugar!). Extraordinary doesn't fairly describe the 2006 Sélection de Grains Nobles Trie Spéciale, the flavors of which continually returned in waves...the finish slowly subsides, only to return a few minutes later. A wonderfully sensuous experience. One final note--from further south on the same hillside, I tasted the 2007 Riesling Brand Sélection de Grains Nobles...I wrote in my notebook, "I'm just going to sit and enjoy this one awhile." Now that's a great wine.

Popularity: 8% [?]

When I was in Alsace this past February, I happened to be there during a school break similar to Spring Break in the U.S. The timing of it is intended, as I understand, to provide a winter break and travel time for families in areas (like Alsace) that are very busy with tourism at the end of the calendar year. I was unaware of how far reaching this would turn out to be, but most of Alsace's service industry is, it would appear, family run. I had intended to stay in Kaysersberg, so I called ahead to the hotel I'd had in mind (right as I was turning into the drive at Domaine Weinbach) and discovered that it was closed. Since I was right on time for my appointment at Weinbach, I didn't have time to call other hotels, so I postponed my search.

While tasting at Weinbach, I asked Laurence Faller if she had any ideas, and after naming a few, she suggested that we consult with her mother when we finished. After Laurence left to run an errand, Madame Colette Faller spent over half an hour helping me find a place--it turns out that most of the hotels and restaurants I was interested in visiting were closed. Madame Faller eventually asked if I minded driving a little further, which I did not, so she called the Hôtel du Faudé in Lapoutroie, which is not much more of a drive--only ten minutes from Kaysersberg.

Lapoutroie is situated partway up the slopes of the Vosges Mountains, overlooking the Kaysersberg Valley. You can't miss the Hôtel du Faudé as you enter the village, and it is a lovely place. Based on my conversation with Chantal Baldinger, who, along with her husband Thierry, owns the Hôtel du Faudé, I inferred that the hotel was actually open because it is quite close to a popular ski area, and I met a family who had come for that exact purpose. Showing that the people of the area and its tourists have their priorities in the right place, this small, family-run hotel has three restaurants! One of these restaurants, Le Faudé Gourmet, should have at least one Michelin star, but I gather the Michelin folks haven't been up here, because there's no other plausible excuse for this omission. The two remaining restaurants are more regionally specific: one focuses on Alsatian cuisine (La Stewala), and the other (Le Grenier Welche) is devoted to ancestral dishes distinct from the Alsatian tradition (more on this later). Of course, in both of these two dining rooms, one can order from either menu.

Lapoutroie itself is an extraordinary place, in that it is one of five villages where you can hear an ancient patois known as Welche spoken around you. It is one of the Langues d'œil (which some moron on Wikipedia incorrectly spells as Langues d'oïl, and refuses to change it, naturally...but where was I?), with the Langue d'œil being the antecedent of modern French. This is worth caring about from a worldwide standpoint only because it is a dialect in the midst of resurrection--it almost died out in the middle of the 20th Century: the Germans wouldn't allow it, and after WWII, the French government made French the required language. When they relaxed this law in the 1960s it took decades for a new generation to force their way into knowledge of it, so the renaissance continues, and it is from this well of tradition that the restaurant at Faudé draws inspiration.

The hotel itself is quite lovely--the room was excellent, and if you don't like the typical French hotel bathroom, then you'll love this place, as the bathroom had a shower stall. It was very quiet at night (this being a snowy February 10), and it was a peaceful place to walk. There are other attractions, including a the Miclo distillery and the Musée des Eaux de Vie. My short experience with Lapoutroie was excellent, and I regret that I could not spare the time to explore it further, because if it is half as vibrant as the many residents I met, then it is a special place indeed.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Laurence Faller of Domaine Weinbach describes the 2008 vintage and its wines.

Popularity: 5% [?]

A Regional Classic
One of the quintessential Alsatian dishes, Baeckeoffe is a hearty pot roast-ish kind of dish that possesses great flavor, and there is a quality of angelic lightness about it that defies description.... Still, this is full-throated, heavy fare. It is more stylized in its construction than is pot roast (which has no specific assembly), as the meat is layered with potatoes and vegetables, marinated in a white wine concoction, that is sealed in a large terrine with a flour paste and cooked for several hours.

Origin of the Name
The word "Baeckeoffe" is from the Alsacien for "bakers oven." One traditional story tells us that Baeckeoffe was assembled by the family matriarch in the morning, dropped off at the bakery by her husband on his way to work, cooked in the still-hot-but-no-longer-on stone ovens, and picked up by her husband, along with a loaf of bread, on his way home.

Accompaniments
This warm and satisfying dish is best served with a green salad and some crusty bread to mop up all that delicious juice.

Baeckeoffe

Serves 6

Meats
1 lb. boneless pork shoulder
1 lb. boneless lamb shoulder
1 lb. boneless beef chuck roast
1 (or 2) pig's foot, split lengthwise (optional but incredibly flavorful)

Marinade
½ celery root, diced
1 carrot, diced
1 onion, diced
1 clove garlic
6 whole cloves or whole allspice berries
4 small bay leaves
1 Tbsp. juniper berries
2 Tbsp. flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
½ tsp. Herbes de Provence
1 bottle dry white wine (preferably Alsace Riesling or something with similarly high acidity)

For the Casserole
Sheets of back fat (optional)
¼ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped, stems reserved
½ celery root, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
1 large leek, white and light green parts sliced
2 onions, diced
6 medium cloves of garlic, minced
2-3 small bay leaves
3-4 lbs. waxy potatoes, peeled and sliced at least ¼" thick. (Yukon Gold work well)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method
1. Combine the four meats with the marinade ingredients. Cover and refrigerate overnight or for up to 72 hours. Strain the meat and vegetables from the marinade, reserving the marinade. Discard the vegetables.

2. With butter, lightly grease the bottom and sides of a large ovenproof casserole with lid. Place the pig's feet (or fat back--I've found it's better to use one or the other rather than both) in the bottom and sprinkle with 1 Tbsp of parsley. Cover with half of the potatoes, then season lightly with salt and pepper and another 1 Tbsp of parsley. Layer successively with meat and vegetables, lightly seasoning with salt and pepper and adding 1 Tbsp of parsley to each layer as you go. Finish with the other half of the potatoes. Pour the reserved marinade in--it should come most of the way up (but not cover) the meat and vegetables. Add some water (or more wine) if necessary. Lightly season the final layer of potatoes, and strew the parsley stems over the top.

3. Seal the lid onto the casserole with a paste made from 4½ oz. flour, 5 Tbsp water, and a Tbsp of oil. Alternatively, use a damp cheesecloth or aluminum foil. Bake at 400°F for 30 minutes, then reduce temperature to 300°F and continue baking for another 3-4 hours. If paste begins to blacken, cover it with foil.

4. When it is done, remove from oven and allow it to rest fifteen minutes. Open, remove parsley stalks and sprinkle with some fresh parsley. Serve it directly at the table. The pig's feet have extraordinary flavor, but are probably best reserved for the more adventurous diners.

Despite using Riesling in the marinade, I generally prefer Pinot Gris with Baeckeoffe.

Popularity: 5% [?]