If you don’t know Muscat d’Alsace, this dry, abundantly aromatic wine is outrageously appointed with delicious flavors, and yet can be so hauntingly subtle from some of the Grands Crus that one could be forgiven for thinking it a different grape.

Grapes Behind Muscat in Alsace
Muscat in Alsace comes from two (three if you want to be technical) varieties: Muscat d'Alsace and Muscat Ottonel. Muscat d'Alsace is a local moniker for the ancient mutant cousins Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains and Muscat Rosé à Petit Grains, both of which are found in large quantities along the Mediterranean coast. Muscat Ottonel's origins are much more recent, was it was created for use in the cooler climates of Hungary, Austria, and Romania in the 19th Century. A well-crafted Muscat made of only Petit Grains is an excellent wine, while a Muscat made only of Muscat Ottonel is good. The best are, perhaps not surprisingly, made of a blend of the two. Most producers share this last opinion--indeed, it is the fruits of their labor that have shaped my opinion--though there is considerable dissent regarding the nobility of the two strains on their own.

Muscat à Petit Grains is a low-yielding variety, while Muscat Ottonel bears much more copiously. Ottonel improves if its yield is limited, but the quality ascends only so far in this regard, so yields need not be held as low as the typical yield of Muscat à Petit Grains to achieve good results. Ottonel's aromatics are much more obvious than those of Petit Grains, but its flavor profile is more one-dimensional. Muscat à Petit Grains makes more long-lived wines, as well, though longevity is not necessarily the idea where Muscat is concerned.

Muscat as it Ages
Muscat is capable of aging quite well, especially if it contains significant amounts of Muscat à Petit Grains. It begins with ethereally exotic features that evolve into terrestrially exotic tones. The first couple of years after a Muscat is released, the wine typically has full-throated aromas and flavors that combine the exotic elements with ones that are decidedly more plain. Elements reminiscent of orange blossom and spices (often not unlike pumpkin pie spices) dovetail with straight grape-y scents, which are unusual in wine. The initial aromatic sensuousness begins to decline steadily after this, and it typically develops a caraway quality that deepens as it continues to mature. I have had 20 year-old Muscat that is as full of caraway as it could be, but it also had acquired notions of cumin and coriander too.

Late Harvest Muscat
Muscat is rarely found in late-harvest form because as a grape with naturally low acidity, it is difficult to maintain a balance of freshness with the over-ripe flavors. When you can find it, Vendange Tardive is most common, but Sélection de Grains Nobles is not out of the question--it's just even rarer. Conventional wisdom is that late harvest Muscat should be drunk young, but I have not experienced this. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht made two benchmark Muscats Vendanges Tardives in 1995 from the Goldert Grand Cru and the Herrenweg de Turckheim that surrounds the estate. I bought a few bottles of each, and through the years, they have developed beautifully. The Herrenweg seemed least likely to mature well, but it was still beautiful--although very different--when I drank my last bottle in 2006. The Goldert has lost its sense of anticipation...a kind of hold-your-breath elusiveness...but it remains as intriguing as ever.

Food with Muscat
Muscat is quite food friendly, as in Alsace it generally develops sufficient acidity to be flexible. One of the most common uses for it is to accompany asparagus, which is at the very heart of Alsatian cuisine. Muscat is also the most reliable accompaniment to Indian and Thai cuisines I’ve had this side of milk or beer. (The guy who popularized the notion that Gewurztraminer is the classic pairing with those foods needs to actually taste them together--while a specific Gewurz might be exquisite with a specific dish, as a class they'll clash as often as not.)

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